DAY 1- THE JOURNEY
All of a sudden the thunderous sound inside the train had woken me. I was lying on the upper berth constantly moved by the force of the train. I reached for my mobile which I had kept near my pillow to find that it was 5.00 in the morning. We were just about an hour away from the halt at the station we were destined to. I looked at my friends down below asleep on their berths and made my way out at the exit door of the coach to freshen myself up. The way to the door was a narrow passage of the air conditioned coach through a series of arms and legs extensions. Well thanks to the air conditioner, because the outside air was much cooler and so was the water which I realized when I splashed a bit of it on my face. I wanted to stay at the door but it was locked. From inside the closed door through the glass window I could see a dim view of green fields in the dark. For a moment I lost myself a bit and my mind got cluttered with the memories of what had brought me there.
‘An idea. Highly contagious. Once an idea has taken hold of the brain, it’s almost impossible to eradicate. An idea that is fully formed, fully understood, that sticks. Right in there somewhere.’ A conversation in the famous and my most favorite movie ‘Inception’.
Something similar had happened to me a couple of months back on a Saturday afternoon in October 2011 when I was watching a film on National Geographic on the Ranthambore Tiger Reserve. It was an amazing film which presented a look into the eventful proceedings of the jungle. It was the story of the wild featuring a tiger family and their daily routine which by any means wasn’t really routine at all. The ferocious hunting by the animal, the walk full of awe in its established territory and the pampering of its cubs at the same time depicted an inexhaustible story of the Tiger. Moreover, these experts and their cameras had reached to such a great extent into the lives of those animals that they managed to portray the story of the jungle in a pleasingly dramatic way. I wondered, if watching this on a television is so much fun then imagine the thrill of it, if I were actually there. That was the idea that bit me like a stinging bee. It got stuck in my mind and I got sort of addicted to the idea of visiting the Jungle to see the Royal Bengal Tiger which I had never seen in my life in person or in tiger should I say.
So the next thing I did was that I started searching on the internet about Tiger Safaris based on the probability of spotting the animal. There were a few in Madhya Pradesh and the famous Jim Corbett Park in Delhi, but my mind was affiliated to Ranthambore, primarily due to the film I saw and hence along with three of my school friends Jayendranath, Mandar & Sarvesh, I decided to visit the Ranthambore Tiger Reserve, which is in Ranthambore, in one of the Great states of India viz. Rajasthan.
“Where are we?” Asked one of my friends Sarvesh, who had also come at the door.
“We are very near. I think we are on time.” I replied.
Soon we discovered a poster on the coach near the door which had the helpline number to track the train position. We knew the train number and got the status and found that it was on time and we were only 5 minutes away from the Sawai Madhopur station. We soon went to our couple other friends and got ourselves ready with the baggage to get down at the station.
Sawai Madhopur Railway Station |
It was a morning in February as expected it was mighty cold outside the train. Apart from the tourists even most locals had covered themselves with jackets and mufflers which was a sign of how cold it actually was. The first thing we did was that we took a hot cup of tea at the station. The tea wasn’t all that tasty nowhere near the cutting of Mumbai, but the only reason we could finish it was the fact that it was hot and we needed that. As we had learned that the resort was only 4 km away from the station so we took an auto rickshaw to the hotel for a sum of 200 Rs. which I felt was unjustified considering the short distance, but we had little option. The auto rickshaw moved away from the station and within a minute we were on a road surrounded by all sorts of resorts bearing a common name of either tiger or Ranthambore. Another thing common was that, these resorts were all surrounded by the army dark green colored gypsies and the canters, which were the vehicles that take people to the jungle. This was enough to set a bit of excitement as we knew that we were very close to the jungle.
Landscape Garden , Vinayak Resort, Ranthambore |
Within no time our rickshaw dropped us at the resort which had a beautiful landscape garden at its entrance and abundant space for vehicle movement.We had reached about 3 hrs before our check in time and tried to see whether we could get a room or too to freshen up or relax as we were a bit tired due to the journey.
The manager at the hotel suggested us in a surprisingly instructive way to visit the nearby Ranthambore fort in those three hours as it would be a good utilization of our time instead of waiting in the reception for the rooms to be emptied. He had a valid point alright, but his tone was more dictating rather than convincing, which made us feel a bit crossed.
But after giving it a thought we decided to take the option of visiting the fort and asked the manager to call for the Gypsy. Till the time the Gypsy would arrive we had a good solid breakfast and prepared ourselves for the Fort visit.
At about 8.00 am our gypsy had arrived. The gypsy is one of the sexiest vehicles you would ever get into too. The manner in which one has to get into it and that too for a Jungle ride …..Mannn that was exciting. We asked the driver to capture this rare moment in our cameras.
Gypsy Ride to Ranthambore Fort |
We took the ride on the road towards the Jungle and learned that the Fort is also inside the Tiger Reserve. As we moved closer to the hilly area of the Jungle the breeze started becoming cooler and cooler. Soon we reached the forest area entry point marked by a small pond and a pillar gateway which reflected architecture of ancient times. The board at the pond read ‘Depth of the pond is high do not enter. Crocodiles inside the Pond’.
Small Gateway towards the Tiger Reserve |
We were now moving to an amazing world in the forest which had different shades of brown and green color spread across nicely decorated by numerous multicolored birds chirping in the pleasingly silent atmosphere of the cold morning.
There were peacocks with that alluring color and peahens wandering in the jungle freely and in good numbers too.
We were nearer to a huge hill on which the fort was located and soon we reached the base of the Fort which had a huge Banyan tree full of black faced langur to welcome us.
Banyan Tree with Black Faced Langur |
DAY 1 - THE RANTHAMBORE FORT VISIT
It takes over a couple of hours for seeing the fort so we took a guide available at the base camp for 200 Rs. and started our fort visit at the entrance marked by the numerous steps and the view of a minar at the top.
Ranthambore Fort View from the Base |
In a typical Rajasthani accent our guide started telling us about the fort which gave us an idea of its rich history. Moreover the excerpts on the several walls built by the Archaeological Survey of India helped us get a glimpse into the lifestyle of the 12th and the 13th Century kings that prevailed and ruled the fort for most part of its history.
Minar- Watch Post |
The fort is said to be constructed the by the Maharaja Jayantha in the 5th Century A.D. ruled by the Yadavas till the 12th century who were expelled by Prithviraj Chauhan. Hammir Deo was the most powerful ruler for the fort who ruled in the 13th century and patronized art and literature.
The fort has seven gateways, a mosque, a Jain Mandir and a few Hindu temples. The important structures were the Dulha Mahal, Rani Palace and few other places which we were going to visit.
One of the Seven Gateways of the Fort |
The Ganesha Temple is the most visited shrine inside the fort. Along the road to the top there were many other significant places. The fort is right inside the jungle and you can spot many monkey groups, different types of birds chirping in the morning. We also spotted a mongoose couple from a distance which was very shy and the not so shy Black faced Langur Monkey.
Several Birds and animals around the Fort |
Although we were very much amazed by the fort’s infrastructure, our trip was centred on the jungle safari and the fact that fort itself was in the jungle was helping our cause. With every step higher and higher we started getting a picturesque view of the jungle separating the fort by a lake which was at prime solitude.
A beautiful view of the Lake and the Forest from the Ranthambore Fort |
Lake view from King's Private Room |
At a point in our ascent our guide showed us antelopes and deer from that distance. I tried to get a glimpse of it on my binoculars and managed to see a few deers at the lakeside for a morning stroll for some water.Soon we moved to one of the important places on the fort called the Dulha Mahal meant for the dancers and celebrations. Below the Dulha Mahal, there were steps that took us down to the king’s private room.
According to our guide the kings used to spend their very private time with the queens and the performers at this very place. The room was marked by the flow of cool breeze coming from the lake from the windows which offered a scenic view.
Khamba Chattri - 32 pillared umbrella structure |
Another structure that took our attention was a 32 pillar building called 32 Khamba Chattri which means 32 pillared umbrella built by King’s Son as a tribute to this father who ruled for 32 years at the fort.
It was remarkably built above a temple of lord Shiva which has a Shiv-linga in the dark. We took the help of our mobile batteries to make it to the Shiv-linga which had a tunnel shaped entrance and astoundingly cold rock.
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Alongside this structure there was another 32 pillar structure which was started by the queen but which remained unfinished. Very near to this place, there was a garden and a storage building of the fort. But as it was under maintenance we could not visit it.
Every time we looked at the jungle our excitement got higher and we wanted to hear more about it, about the Tiger.
“Doesn’t the tiger come here?” asked Mandar to the Guide.
Very casually he replied, “Yes, In fact quite often in the evening, not so much on the fort but many times at the base.”
“So they attack humans?” went Jayendranath.
“No they don’t”, said the Guide.
“They don’t? We asked again.
“No they don’t” he replied quite firmly. “The Animal here doesn’t attack humans. Fortunately there is enough food in the jungle for it the deers, sambhars, Blue Bulls. At the fort many people have spotted the leopard especially on the hilly portion near the lake and during night time." That was enough for another wave through our bodies, the sensation of that fear of being around these wild cats.
The Rani lake - Princess Lake |
We moved further to a beautiful lake on the inner side of the fort all covered by red colored leaves on it called the Rani Lake. The significance of this lake was that it was used by the princess for bathing. It also read a board with a precaution about the depth of the lake.Further we came across a temple of Lord Hanuman built with rocks with a dome adding to the chill of the atmosphere there. The monkeys were all in readiness to get the Prasad which was offered in the temple. We offered them a bit of it as it was a better deal than giving away our cameras or shoes or caps.
Arrangement of Stones as wishful strong houses by devotees |
On the way towards the temple we saw a lot of small structures made from stones arranged one above the other in the shape of a house. I couldn’t help but asked the guide about these structures. He said that those were representing the wishful houses of the devotees who wished a house as strong as the fort.
We then moved further where our guide made us understand the origin of the name of the fort. The Jungle on the other side of the lake is ‘THE RAN’ which means the battlefield in Hindi, where the Great Warriors fought the wars, the pillars of the fort creating a strong fortification meant ‘THAM’, and the lake that separated the two places meant ‘BHORE’.
Hence the name RANTHAMBORE.
Finally we reached the temple of Lord Ganesha where there was the vermilion dabbed idol of my most favorite deity. We spend some moments in the temple and gave away some money to the person who took care of our foot wear from the monkeys and moved to the base where our gypsy was waiting for us. We moved through the jungle again which was brighter as the sun had come out and it was less cool now. At the resort our rooms were ready and we got ourselves fresh to prepare for the afternoon safari. Now there were two safaris that we had booked, the afternoon safari which was to start at 14:30 hrs and go for three hours up to 17:30 hrs and the next morning one which was to start at 7:00 hrs and go up to 10.00 hrs. We had booked the safaris online but were to submit the Indemnity bond at the Ranthambore Interpretation Centre, which was done by our hotel staff. We had our lunch and waited for our vehicle at the resort.
DAY 1 -TIGER SAFARI 1 – AFTERNOON
If you are in Ranthambore as a tourist and you interact with people, everyone has a story to tell about the tiger and how they spotted it. We experienced that at the resort, right from the steward at the restaurant, the Manager at the reception, the housekeeping staff, just about everyone had seen the animal and talked about it so often. That helped us see through the waiting time and also to build up the excitement for what was going to be our First Tiger safari.
Canter pick up at the Resort for the Tiger Safari |
Soon the canter arrived at our resort took a turn around the circle and stood at the gate. The person at the centre in the uniform confirmed four people and we got inside the vehicle which was full to its capacity of 15. We were probably the last as our resort was closer to the park and there was no space left in the vehicle which had a good mix of people from all across the globe. On our way till the park we had a little interaction and based on our observations we could make out that we were in the company of an Indian family, a group of women from Russia, a few Americans and Germans and a couple from London. All geared up with their cameras and binoculars, with one thing in common, the desire of sighting the Tiger in the wild.
Ranthambore National Park Gate |
Soon we were at the gate of the Ranthambore Tiger Park where they checked our Identity proofs and video cameras as video cameras needed an extra ticket of 400 Rs. Having done that we kicked off our first tiger safari. The person at the centre in the Khakhi uniform was the guide who started getting us oriented about the Jungle and the ground rules of the safari. The jungle is spread in an area of around 400 sq km and only one third portion of it is open to tourists. It comprises 8 zones marked and identified as per tiger territories. According to the guide there were 35 tigers in the Jungle. He requested us to remain seated while the vehicle was in motion and also not to get out of it.
Ground Rules for the Tiger Safari |
However we could ask him to stop if we wanted to take photos of any sighting. From inside the main gate we reached the interpretation centre where the canters and gypsies are allocated their individual zones. In a single zone for a particular safari only 4 canters and 2 gypsies were allowed. The guide got the permission to go to the zone 2 and we moved along in the Zone 2. Suddenly the single road got covered by a lot of vegetation on both sides and a few minutes down the line we were in the wild surrounded by many spotted deers and monkeys.
A group of Spotted Deers at the Ranthambore Tiger Reserve |
We took a stop at a group of the spotted dears for some clicks of the beautiful animal blessed with a golden color skin decorated with strikingly attractive white colored spots, hence the name.
The male had the stylish horns which were very sharp but made a delicate sound in the amazing silent jungle, when hit against each other. While the female deer with its elegance and grace was the reason for the horns to get going.
Female Spotted Deers |
I had only heard about it and seen on television, but now I knew why Sita, the wife of Lord Rama was so enticed by and wanted the deer skin colored clothing in the great Epic ‘Ramanyana’. The color of it is so alluring and for the tiger the meat must be. After a few clicks our canter moved further into the Jungle.
Our next stop was at a Sambhar Family. The Sambhar is another food of the tiger much bigger than the dear and stronger, with brown colored thick skin. There were males, females and the little ones. One family seemed utterly curious about our presence and were watching us for a good 5 minutes or so when our vehicle stood static in the woods.
We spotted a beautiful male Sambhar and could click a classic snap of the animal.
The ride through the jungle is very pleasant. With the natural state of things it takes you back to the era where life is still what it was thousands and thousands of years ago. The beautiful array of lakes and ponds around most places in this jungle has given it the life it has. We were near a pond where a few Sambhars had come to drink water. The color of the lake was lit up by the evening sun showing a reflection of the animals with a glossy tinge.
Sambhars drinking water near the ponds |
As we passed through, most of the animals acknowledged our presence, but the ones keenly
A Curious Group of the Black Faced Langur Monkeys |
interested in us were our very own ancestors, the monkeys. Here you find the black faced langur monkeys, which kept flocking around us as we moved. The black face was one of the most expressive of all animals, seconded by the vivid sounds that they made. We see the different ones with the street-performers in Mumbai, but these ones in their natural environment were looking ever so friendly, beautiful and confident.
The monkeys, deers and the sambhars are good friends. They keep giving each other the signals of the tiger by calling out and that was going to help us spot the tiger, especially the monkeys as they enjoy the larger view from the top of the trees.
A series of spotting the animals closer and closer than before went on until a point where everyone’s conscience was literally asking the guide, “Dude what about the Tiger?” Soon along our way we met fellow tourists on another canter whose guide told ours about an Antelope which was reportedly killed by the Tiger in the same zone which meant that there was a high probability that the animal would be around its food as it takes a tiger over a couple of days to finish an adult antelope. Hence both canters reached the road which was at a short distance from the killed antelope. It was a black colored animal, yet called as ‘Blue Bull’ but couldn’t clearly make out as what we could see was only the leftover of it.
Half Remains of an Antelope Killed by a Tiger |
Based on the chances and taking different paths unfortunately we could not spot the tiger and were on our way return back as the guide had said, it was a matter of chance and there was no guarantee of spotting the animal. But there were so many takeaways of the safari, getting such a close look into the lives of these beautiful animals. The freshness in the air, the cool breeze even in the afternoon, the silence with only bird chirps were all enough to take my mind to a feeling of relief, to get lost in that very world. Moreover we had a morning safari left so we still had a chance of seeing the tiger.
DAY 2 - TIGER SAFARI 2-IN THE MORNING
Ranthambore National Partk Gate- Morning Safari |
We were ready again geared up for the morning safari at 7.00 am when the canter arrived at our hotel to pick up. The morning was so cold that the gloves sellers could sell their gloves at 5 times its normal price at the Park Gate, where after the Identity check and camera check we moved into the office.
With a different guide this time we were also moving to a different zone. Zone 5 it was as the guide told us and started the primary introduction of the Jungle which we already knew. In this zone there was reportedly a movement of a female tiger spotted very early morning as per the guide.
Huge Banyan Tree with Tiger & Leopard Nail Marks on the Branches |
The same series of events of spotting the deers, sambhars and monkeys went on. We could see that the excitement was much higher for the first timers, but we were thinking only Tigers. Soon we were at a huge banyan tree where the guide showed a several marks made by the sharps nails of the tigers and the leopards on the trees marking their presence.
Antelope or Blue Bull |
We spotted an antelope, a living one this time and man...it was quite huge. It has the body of the bull but the neck resembled that of a horse. I wondered how the tiger could kill an animal of that size.This particular zone was marked by the presence of a big lake on one side, which was near the chowky where the forest ranger was stationed.
The Ranger approached us and confirmed about the pugmarks observed in the morning. Soon he was on board with us and accompanied us to the spot which was further down into the jungle. We could see the pugmarks, which as told by the guide were of a female tiger and were fresh which meant that the animal had just passed few hours ago. They were encircled for easy reference by the ranger.
Forest Ranger encircling Tiger Pugmarks at Ranthambore Tiger Reserve |
Waiting in Anticipation for the Tiger |
Soon our guide heard a monkey call and 3 canters in that vicinity moved to the spot where they heard the call. This was a less dense place with pale dry grass and not many trees for a distance of 30 ft. The stage was set for the King to arrive or Queen rather. All of us were set in readiness with our cameras and binoculars like in any press conference of a celebrity. The ranger’s and guide’s sharp eyes were glued to the slightest movements they could observe and sounds they could hear.
A Couple of Crocodiles lying in the Lake under the morning Sun |
The spur that they created added to the drama. In my life I had never anticipated anything as patiently as this. Those 60 seconds of holding the breath were startling to say the least. The guide told us soon we should here the monkey call again. But as luck would have it for us, we didn’t hear any call, which meant that the tiger, if there was any had moved away from us. So close, yet so far.
But there was another little part of the safari which was the halt at the lake where the guide allowed us to get down for 5 minutes for photos, near the chowky where the Ranger was stationed. Soon at the nearby lake, somebody spotted a rock like structure at a distance which we learned after careful observation, was a couple of crocs and not rocks. The crocodiles were lying in the marshy part of the lake in the beating sun.
A Peacock |
There was also a peacock near the lake almost posing for photographs. After a few minutes we got back on our canter. We had nearly reached the end of the safari and we knew that we would soon be returning without seeing the tiger yet again. We had only booked two safaris and couldn’t see the tiger, so we unanimously decided to take another chance. Soon we reached the resort and booked the afternoon safari that day.
DAY 2 - TIGER SAFARI 3 - IN THE AFTERNOON
Where are we going wrong? What are we doing wrong? Can we budge for a different zone? Or we change our luck? How do we do it? We need to change things or make them work.
Entering Zone 5 of the Ranthambore Tiger Reserve |
Superstitions help at such times. Whether it’s the color of our clothes, a favorite shoe or a key chain in the pocket. It all helps. Prepares you mentally. So did we, we changed our hats, I shaved and another friend of mine switched to multicolored clothing. Again in readiness for the third time now and pretty much used to the process we arrived at the gate of the reserve. Proceeding to the same reports of the morning pugmarks we yet again move to the zone 5. On learning that and following the disappointment in the morning we thought we were screwed.
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The safari began and by now we were very much like seniors to the first timers with us. The guide began the introduction which was a part of every safari, but this man was more expressive, interactive and enthusiastic.
In interacting with him we told him that we were on our third safari.The same sequence repeatedly followed with the sambhars, deers and monkey spotting. This time we could see a new member, a baby crocodile so difficult to spot, almost camouflaged as a rock.
We went along until, at a point where we were close to a fight between a couple of male deers. The sound of the horns hitting each other was clear as ever. The deers looked at us cautiously seeking danger, but eventually realized that we were not there to harm and continued their fight. It was an amazing footage for wild life film makers. I could capture the video of the fight.
A couple of Male Deers Fight for Supremacy |
Soon we proceeded further and were almost to reach half part of the safari. By now we had given all hopes as we had taken the same path in the morning in vain. We moved to a spot where there were more deers and three canters including ours stood in line on the road.
Without any of the wildest of imagination and after the quest of over last 30 hrs moving around in the vicinity of the great animal of my country, we were close, which we realized when somebody shouted out loud in an impelling voice full of enthusiasm ………….
“TIGER TIGER TIGER…………”
All the 120 eyeballs in a split second turned their focus to the direction the person who had shouted was showing. And in their retinas was the short glimpse of the royal Bengal Tiger with its black colored stripes creating an illusionary effect with the grass of the wild as it walked. That effect made a few of us miss the sight as it very silently disappeared in the woods. But from the direction of the movement of the animal and the experience of the guides, they predicted that it was making it to the lake. So all three canters were waiting in position to confirm the movement of the tiger to the lake.
The Tiger Reflection seen as it approaches the Lake |
And the confirmation came from a call by the monkeys and off went the canters towards the lake almost like a military operation and stood at a nice spot awaiting the Big cat. This happened in seconds and we understood what role the guides and the drivers played when we soon saw the reflection of the animal approaching the lake side. The guide and the driver also had to keep people quiet as they were all excited and making noise would disturb the animal thereby affecting the sighting. But the buzz went around in the crowd with oohs and aas and whispering to fellow mates which whom they shared this great moment.
For the first time in my life I was seeing the most graceful big wild cat right in front of my eyes in its very own jungle. In a walk full of awe not bothered at all by anybody’s presence the tiger moved along to the bank and made its way into the lake. The beautiful body, the remarkable movement in the wild and total control of every move was an exemplary sight indeed. It moved with its front legs bend to reach for the water to quench the thirst. As it started drinking water the reflection of the beast was clearly visible in the lake. That was a classic moment for all photographers and the cameras went bananas.
After drinking the water, it turned around in composure and sat inside the water to cool itself.
“It’s T-17 the female tiger”, said our guide. "THE LADY OF THE LAKE….”
At about 20 feet from our vehicle we were seeing the Royal Bengal Tiger in its very own habitat. I could hear my heart beating harder as there was a stunning silence in respect to the presence of the creature. We knew we were lucky to sight the animal and wanted to make most of it so for every moment we were glued to its acts and kept wondering what would be the next move.After a few minutes cooling down in the lake it started moving into the jungle and so moved our vehicles in a parallel path. More than capturing in the cameras, watching it with the naked eye was an experience running short of words to describe. The Lady moved and we followed. Stopped at certain moments in between and approached a tree and stretched the front limbs and the back. The beauty Queen had plenty to choose and make her way anywhere she wanted in the jungle. Soon she moved up the hill as per the guide, as in the evening time the deers move uphill.
At a position where we stood the monkey calls were absolutely clear. We were near a Sambhar which had spotted the tiger too and was giving alarms to the other fellow Sambhars by tapping its feet and making cautious calls. Suddenly the sambhars started running away. But the tiger had swiftly disappeared in the woods.
For the last 20 minutes or so we were alongside the Queen of the Jungle playing paparazzi but interestingly not even a single moment she ever looked at us or took notice of us. All of us were now trying to get out of that momentary high and were finding it difficult to believe what they had seen. In fact our guide himself was so ecstatic. He told us that in his 7 years career as a naturalist, this was one of his best sightings of the tiger in winter season. He, by the name of Battilal, along with our driver who did a fabulous job of positioning the vehicle for an optimum sighting had by now become our celebrities.
We could appreciate their effort with a tip of 200 Rs. at the end of the safari and bid goodbye and our thanks for their job.After a series of safaris we had changed our luck. I was over the moon as what I had wished for more than a couple of months back had happened.I lived the Idea which was stuck, in my mind of sighting a tiger in the wild with the naked eye. All the wait of 2 months and in the safaris was worth the experience. We were on a mission, and our mission was accomplished.
When we reached the resort again, the people were the same, the stewards, the managers the housekeepers.But now all their stories started falling into place. Now I had started believing in all their stories. After all I was now, one of them.
.….THE END ……
At a Glance :
Place: Ranthambore Tiger Reserve, Ranthambore, Sawai Madhopur, Rajasthan.
Nearest Railway Station: Sawai Madhopur
Spots: Tiger Reserve and Ranthambore Fort.
Tiger Safari timings: Morning 6.30 to 9.30 am Afternoon 2.30 to 5.30 pm
Fort : 2 Hours for Fort Seeing.